What 'in conversion' really means on a wine label
" In conversion" on a label is a term that intrigues and, for lack of explanation, is often overlooked. Neither truly organic nor truly conventional — so what exactly is it? It is the story of a commitment that has begun, but which the paperwork has not yet caught up with.
Three years of patience before the official stamp
In Europe, for a wine to display the European organic logo, the estate must have worked its vines using organic farming methods for a minimum of three consecutive years. No synthetic pesticides, no chemical fertilizers, no herbicides — for three full harvests.
Why three years? Because soil has a memory. Chemical residues do not disappear overnight. It takes time for the land to regenerate, for biological balances to be restored, and for tests to no longer show traces from the previous period.
During these three years, the winemaker is monitored, audited, and followed — but they cannot yet place the organic logo on their label. The phrase "in conversion to organic farming" (or simply "in conversion") is what they can legally use to indicate their process.
What this actually means for you
A wine "in conversion" comes from a winemaker who has made the decision to change their practices — and is publicly committing to it. They do not yet earn the commercial premium of the organic label, they bear the costs of the change (more work, often lower yields during the transition, potential losses), without yet being able to display the official recognition.
This is often the hardest year. The pests and diseases that were kept at bay by chemicals return — and the winemaker must learn to manage them differently. It is a learning process, and it happens on the job, often at their own expense.
Buying a wine "in conversion" therefore means supporting this specific moment: when a winemaker has made a decision, but has not yet finished the journey.
Should you trust this label?
The phrase "in conversion to organic farming" is regulated — it cannot be placed on a label unless the estate is actually enrolled in a certification program. There is a certification body (Ecocert, Bureau Veritas, Certipaq, etc.) that monitors the file.
It is therefore not a marketing term invented on a whim. It is an official status, temporary by nature, that has a scheduled start and end.
The nuance to keep in mind: "in conversion" says nothing about cellar practices. The winemaker may work their vines organically but vinify using all other authorized additives. A wine "in conversion" is not automatically a natural wine or a low-sulfite wine — it is information about the vine, not the winemaking.
The difference between certified organic, biodynamic, and natural
To put labels into perspective:
Certified "Organic farming": three years of conversion completed, label obtained, annual audits maintained. Guarantees practices in the vineyard according to precise specifications.
"In conversion": same specifications, same audits — but the three-year waiting period has not yet passed.
"Biodynamic" (Demeter, Biodyvin): organic + additional practices inspired by Rudolf Steiner's anthroposophy (lunar calendar, specific preparations). Own certification, even more demanding.
"Natural wine": no official certification in France to date.
Covers practices that vary by winemaker — generally organic or biodynamic in the vineyard, vinification with little to no additives, reduced or absent sulfites. SAINS (Without Any Additives or Sulfites) is a private charter that formalizes some of these commitments.
At LET IT BiB
We work with winemakers who have something to say about how they make their wine — not just about the grape variety and the appellation. Some have been certified organic for a long time. Others are in conversion. Still others work in biodynamics or natural wine.
In all cases, the approach is sincere and traceable. You will find this information on each product sheet.